Basic health checks...
Now this will eventually become second nature to any crestie owner, but for the newer keepers of you it can be a daunting matter!
Health checks are not something we do just on purchase...its a regular thing :) Alas cresties can't just say they are feeling under weather so its up to us to know what to look for when buying and maintaining.
This is by no means a definitive guide...just like the care guide, but it is enough to get you going on the first steps of care.
I've taken a few pictures and squiggled on them for your pleasure but hopefully you get the idea :)
These tricky little devils can be squirmy and intimidating! The trick is to secure firmly but lightly...treat them like a stress ball and the wee things will struggle like heck! If they squirm up and you feel your loosing your grip then don't hold tighter...let them jump to your other hand and repeat the process again. Remember to give them support, no loose limbs flailing.
Health checks are not something we do just on purchase...its a regular thing :) Alas cresties can't just say they are feeling under weather so its up to us to know what to look for when buying and maintaining.
This is by no means a definitive guide...just like the care guide, but it is enough to get you going on the first steps of care.
I've taken a few pictures and squiggled on them for your pleasure but hopefully you get the idea :)
These tricky little devils can be squirmy and intimidating! The trick is to secure firmly but lightly...treat them like a stress ball and the wee things will struggle like heck! If they squirm up and you feel your loosing your grip then don't hold tighter...let them jump to your other hand and repeat the process again. Remember to give them support, no loose limbs flailing.
The above holding will allow you to look at a few things...
It should be clean and free of gunk, there should be NO pink showing or anything poking out. Though you will see the privates poking out at times, this is usually with mature males, prior or after mating while they are cleaning themselves and encouraging it back in. Any other time may be cause for concern and a sign of a prolapse.
If you are wanting to sex a gecko this is also the time to take a peak or picture for others to take a guess. Crestie geckos are extrememly hard to sex while young and nothing is set in stone until one of two things happen...they reach about 30g without any man bits or they develop plums.
The way many of us sex early is by pore sexing. This is when we look for scales not far above the vent with dark dimples, typically there will be two rows once matured and scales will over lap slightly....looking for these on a baby however is extrememly hard and done via a loupe or a micro lens. Performing and getting an idea on sex below that of 10g is near on impossible and can change as any point before that of 30g.
When providing a picture for possible sexing to any reptile group, this is the type of picture they will need (below)...clear and close. A mature male clearly showing pores (dots in the middle of scales) is in the middle. Females can show the odd pore but nothing like that of a mature male.
- Ears: are they clean, no loose bits of skin or gunk.
- Eyes: are the bright and clear, not suken and dull. Does the pupil retract and enlarge if held in shade or light. Are the eyes even in size.
- Jaw: Does it line up and sit straight when closed. Is it free of any discoloration or denting.
- Nose: again, free of gunk and liquid.
It should be clean and free of gunk, there should be NO pink showing or anything poking out. Though you will see the privates poking out at times, this is usually with mature males, prior or after mating while they are cleaning themselves and encouraging it back in. Any other time may be cause for concern and a sign of a prolapse.
If you are wanting to sex a gecko this is also the time to take a peak or picture for others to take a guess. Crestie geckos are extrememly hard to sex while young and nothing is set in stone until one of two things happen...they reach about 30g without any man bits or they develop plums.
The way many of us sex early is by pore sexing. This is when we look for scales not far above the vent with dark dimples, typically there will be two rows once matured and scales will over lap slightly....looking for these on a baby however is extrememly hard and done via a loupe or a micro lens. Performing and getting an idea on sex below that of 10g is near on impossible and can change as any point before that of 30g.
When providing a picture for possible sexing to any reptile group, this is the type of picture they will need (below)...clear and close. A mature male clearly showing pores (dots in the middle of scales) is in the middle. Females can show the odd pore but nothing like that of a mature male.
Calcium sacks! now many of you will not feel comfortable with this as a new keeper....there is a trick to it :) Calcium sacks are little pearly, white, balls on the roof of the mouth that sit just behind where the eyes are. I don't have 3 hands but ill get a sack picture in as soon as i can. The trick is to tickle...not force. No force, cards, buds, spoons or other implements..this is how you damage a jaw.
All you need is your pinchy fingers! Hold securely and use you finger and thumb to rub the side of the mouth in a downward fashion..Not forcibly, just firmly. It'll take a few rubs but they will eventually open it enough to peek quickly! and i do mean quick lol! If you see any tail shaking then STOP, try again a different day. If they squirm out then just let them hop to the next hand and calmly/firmly readjust to try again :) This isn't so much important with hatchlings as calcium is being used to grow but IMO needed in gravid females. Male sacks are smaller than females...adult sacks however should not be non existent.
All you need is your pinchy fingers! Hold securely and use you finger and thumb to rub the side of the mouth in a downward fashion..Not forcibly, just firmly. It'll take a few rubs but they will eventually open it enough to peek quickly! and i do mean quick lol! If you see any tail shaking then STOP, try again a different day. If they squirm out then just let them hop to the next hand and calmly/firmly readjust to try again :) This isn't so much important with hatchlings as calcium is being used to grow but IMO needed in gravid females. Male sacks are smaller than females...adult sacks however should not be non existent.
This is also an excellent time to quickly glance at the gums and teeth. There should be no dark/brown/red areas on the gum or surrounding the tiny teeth.
WARNING! geckos are quick buggers, and don't be surprised if you get a nip if your not quick enough. They do have teeth, it can be a quick shock but do not drop or throw the poor blighter! They rarely draw blood and damage in minimal apart from the bruised ego :P
We now move on to the body :)
You are looking at the spine, proportions, legs and tail.
WARNING! geckos are quick buggers, and don't be surprised if you get a nip if your not quick enough. They do have teeth, it can be a quick shock but do not drop or throw the poor blighter! They rarely draw blood and damage in minimal apart from the bruised ego :P
We now move on to the body :)
You are looking at the spine, proportions, legs and tail.
For young or skittish geckos this could be done in a cricket tub :)
The spine should not be displaying any lumps, humps or big bumps...it should curve smoothly and look aligned from both the side and above. Humps, bumps and lumps could be a sign of MBD.
Look at the skin and how it sits on the gecko...is it wrinkly and loose? this could be dehydration, it should form to the body like...well....skin :P
Proportions...can you see very defined ribs or bone structure? there is a fine line between healthy and slender and skinny....during you research time you would of come across hundreds of geckos...over weight, slightly chubby, fit and slender...and then the underweight/malnourished. If very overweight you'll see large fat pockets and they will feel like pudding. We judge a geckos weight less on what numbers a scale is showing but by the over all appearence..REMEMBER! they all grow differently and there is no strict weight a gecko of X age should be weighting.
Legs! look at how they have been moving throughout this. Do they bend and straighten with ease, has he jumped with ease, are they even to its partnered leg and sit tight to the body when bent? Chubby back legs can be a sign of MBD after weakened bones have fractured and healed. If it is MBD then there will be other signs (spine, tail) apart from the legs so don't worry if your not too sure.
The toes should grip and splay out (running a finger under the foot is a good way to test or observe in the enclosure as they climb), and the legs and toes should be free of shed. You could also look at the claws to ensure the aren't growing into the footpad or side...should be small, curved and even.
Are the footpads sticky? if not then ask if hes due a shed as this can affect stickiness, if the answer is no then query the diet. Dehydration, stress, MBD and shed are the main reasons a gecko isn't sticky. Look at the pelvis...the body should all flow, look to make sure the pelvis isn't jarred to the side.
The tail! Things to note....not all cresties will have a tail for whatever reason, don't panic! frogbums get love too!
The spine should not be displaying any lumps, humps or big bumps...it should curve smoothly and look aligned from both the side and above. Humps, bumps and lumps could be a sign of MBD.
Look at the skin and how it sits on the gecko...is it wrinkly and loose? this could be dehydration, it should form to the body like...well....skin :P
Proportions...can you see very defined ribs or bone structure? there is a fine line between healthy and slender and skinny....during you research time you would of come across hundreds of geckos...over weight, slightly chubby, fit and slender...and then the underweight/malnourished. If very overweight you'll see large fat pockets and they will feel like pudding. We judge a geckos weight less on what numbers a scale is showing but by the over all appearence..REMEMBER! they all grow differently and there is no strict weight a gecko of X age should be weighting.
Legs! look at how they have been moving throughout this. Do they bend and straighten with ease, has he jumped with ease, are they even to its partnered leg and sit tight to the body when bent? Chubby back legs can be a sign of MBD after weakened bones have fractured and healed. If it is MBD then there will be other signs (spine, tail) apart from the legs so don't worry if your not too sure.
The toes should grip and splay out (running a finger under the foot is a good way to test or observe in the enclosure as they climb), and the legs and toes should be free of shed. You could also look at the claws to ensure the aren't growing into the footpad or side...should be small, curved and even.
Are the footpads sticky? if not then ask if hes due a shed as this can affect stickiness, if the answer is no then query the diet. Dehydration, stress, MBD and shed are the main reasons a gecko isn't sticky. Look at the pelvis...the body should all flow, look to make sure the pelvis isn't jarred to the side.
The tail! Things to note....not all cresties will have a tail for whatever reason, don't panic! frogbums get love too!
Twoflower - with tail
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With tail:
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Glitch: without tail/Frogbum
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Worry less about comparing your gecko to others of a similar weight or age....cresties grow in there own sweet time and it will vary massively for each and everyone of them. If the proportions look good, they are eating, pooping and slowly gaining weight then there is nothing to worry about :)
Take in the general behaviour throughout all of this, alertness, activity and responsiveness. Cresties are an active species that should not be rod still, unusually slow/hindered movements or having shivers :)
Take in the general behaviour throughout all of this, alertness, activity and responsiveness. Cresties are an active species that should not be rod still, unusually slow/hindered movements or having shivers :)
AVOID babies under 4g and 8 weeks IMO if your new...moving is stressful enough without getting a baby baby started as your new pet :)
Weighing a gecko....the easy way!
Cricket tub, lid and scales.
Kitchen digital scales are fine for adults but a scale that reads 0.1g is better for babies who weight gain is so slight.Place box and lid on scales, zero it and then add the gecko...or add them all on and subtract the tub and lid weight after :)
If you are health checking because you are thinking of buying....
What should i be ASKING!
It's important to talk to the seller too, get insight on the gecko so i'll list some basic questions for you :)
Remember this is only my guide and what i look for, its not the be all and end all, and if an issue is found its just a matter of catering your own husbandry to maintain and manage a gecko with any issues :) Weight can always be put on, diet changed, stuck shed soaked and aid given in removing, and of course the vets! so don't be disheartened! just know what your getting into :)
Weighing a gecko....the easy way!
Cricket tub, lid and scales.
Kitchen digital scales are fine for adults but a scale that reads 0.1g is better for babies who weight gain is so slight.Place box and lid on scales, zero it and then add the gecko...or add them all on and subtract the tub and lid weight after :)
If you are health checking because you are thinking of buying....
What should i be ASKING!
It's important to talk to the seller too, get insight on the gecko so i'll list some basic questions for you :)
- How old is the gecko?
- Is sex known? (not that important if being kept on its own for the end of days :) )
- Any known health issues in the past?
- What diet has it been fed....both live (was it dusted?) and CGD (remember..baby food and jelly pots are a no no *YUK!*, they can be converted to a healthier diet but may take time and perseverance.)
- How much does he actually eat approx? Strong eater or can be a little picky? (providing and eating are two different things ;) )
- How much does he weigh? (you can always do that at home or then and there if unknown)
- AND! if you find anything out of place with the gecko during the check....query it! how long, what was the course, whats been done about it in the past..
Remember this is only my guide and what i look for, its not the be all and end all, and if an issue is found its just a matter of catering your own husbandry to maintain and manage a gecko with any issues :) Weight can always be put on, diet changed, stuck shed soaked and aid given in removing, and of course the vets! so don't be disheartened! just know what your getting into :)